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Deep Engine Trouble (22-4)
By Steve Horsfall
Steve Horsfall I enjoy reading your column and Power Boating Canada magazine. I never expected to be writing you, but here I am with a problem. I own a 2001 Mariah with a 350 cc Merc 2 barrel carb. The boat/engine has 76 hours of running time and it’s in mint condition. I used the boat only for a few hours last summer prior to my problem. Now, the engine won't fire up and run. This happened out of the blue. It started and ran for a few seconds then quit. I tried re-starting numerous times but without any luck. I removed the air filter and poured a little gas into the carburetor and it started and then it ran out of gas. I did this a number of times with the same results each time.

I contacted a marine mechanic and after several attempts of starting the engine, he said the fuel pump was the problem. He returned the next day with a new pump and after installing it the engine didn't start. He took the filter out of the carburetor and it was as clean as a whistle. The filter under the floor near the fuel tank was also clean. Subsequently, he took something off in the carburetor and played around and the engine started. He took it out for a run and returned to the dock without any problems. The next day, I tried to start it and nothing happened. I called the mechanic back and he did the carburetor thing again and it started. I took the boat out for a drive, stopped at a friends place and shut the engine off. It started when we were leaving and then, the next day, it wouldn't start. There is new gas in the tank (that’s probably mixed with some gas with fuel stabilizer from the previous year) but the water separator filter, oil and filter are new.

What happens is the engine turns over quickly and it sounds like it's going to fire up but doesn’t. The last time I talked to the mechanic he said it would probably need a carburetor kit. I would like to get this problem resolved.

J. Bain
e-mail


Three possibilities come to mind. First, the carburetor may be losing fuel from the float bowl when the engine sits overnight or longer. A kit will likely solve this problem. Secondly, there may be a problem with the anti-siphon valve in the fuel tank pick-up. This fitting is located at the elbow on the top of the fuel tank. It’s designed to stop the fuel from leaking if a line develops a leak lower than the tank. You can remove it and see if that solves your problem.

Additionally, check to see if the vent fitting for the fuel tank isn’t plugged and/or the hose is connected properly between the vent fittings. Also, see if the top of the fuel tank doesn’t have any kinks or blockages. I have seen these plugged with spider nests and mud wasps from time to time.

Always Keep Cool
I recently purchased a 22-foot bowrider with a 320 hp Volvo Penta I/O. The first time I ran it on the water, I followed the break-in procedure indicated by the manual. After bringing the boat on plane (at 3200 rpm) the engine overheated. It has been dyno tested and all components on the raw fresh water-cooling system have been inspected by the Volvo dealer. Unfortunately, they are unable to find the source of the problem since they can’t get the engine to over heat with their testing procedures. However, the engine continues to overheat on the water. Do you have any suggestions?

S. Hann
e-mail


The only thing I can think of is that when the mechanic is testing your boat on the dyno, he is force-feeding water into the water pump from a pressurized water hose (which is how it is usually done when testing a boat out of the water). But your overheating condition occurs when the water pump needs to actually suck water (that creates a vacuum in the intake side of the water pump).

I would suggest checking for air leaks in the inlet side of the water pump and/or a less than perfect rubber impeller in the pump itself. If the mechanic cannot duplicate the overheating condition on the dyno, he should take the boat to the nearest launch ramp and run the engine in the water to duplicate your experience.

I am assuming the servicing dealer is the same dealer you bought the boat from. If it isn’t, you may not get all of the money back as the selling dealer will usually absorb some of the costs, which are not necessarily covered by Volvo’s warranty program. Most engine manufacturers have some flexibility in the rules of their warranty programs. Be sure to keep all the invoices, as you should be able to get reimbursed for this. If a faulty pump causes the problem you shouldn’t have to pay for the time taken to diagnose the problem.

Got a question or a problem? Send your inquiries to Steve Horsfall at stephen.horsfall@sympatico.ca Fax: 1-613-236-0700. (Page Top)
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