Whether you’re planning a week-long anchorage or a day on the water with your family, Power Boating Canada introduces Water Ways, an in-depth look at useful and practical boating tips to enhance your time on the water. This issue, our long-time boating expert Doug Dawson gives the lowdown on anchoring.

Recreational boaters may think that the technique of anchoring a boat couldn’t be simpler – tie a rope to a rock, throw it overboard, and the boat will stay securely in one place. In fact, the nuances of anchoring a boat have been refined over centuries of experience. Match the correct anchor, and the right rode or anchor line, to the type of boat and prevailing weather and water conditions, and you can be rest assured you have done all you can to take care of the boat and its passengers. Pick the wrong anchor, or use an anchor ineffectively and your beloved boat may drift away, never again to see the light of day. Anchors come in several different shapes and sizes. Here’s an inside look at anchors – how to choose ‘em and how to use ‘em.

Danforth or “Fluke” Anchor
These are the most commonly used anchor for boats up to approximately 40 feet. As the name implies, it has two blades (flukes) that pivot approximately 30 degrees away from the stock, which allows the blades to tip down and penetrate into the bottom. Flukes hold well in sand or a sand/mud bottom.

CQR - Plow Anchors
Used on boats 30 feet and up, the CQR, as the name implies, is “Secure.” The stock pivots above the plow blades so when the wind changes the boat’s angle, the pivot compensates and does not disturb the plow. The Bruce Plow has a fixed stock and its bat-style wings extend upwards from the plow blade, providing a more vertical bite. Both style of anchors set well in sand, weed beds, rocks or rock/mud combination.

How to Use Your Anchor
Anchors are always tied off of the bow cleat to hold the bow directly into the wind and seas. The bow is shaped for this purpose. Never tie your anchor to the transom, since waves splashing over the transom could potentially swamp the boat. Stormy weather? Take two anchors, and call us in the morning. In high winds and rough conditions, it’s often wise to use a second anchor. Here are a few guidelines to safely secure your boat for heavy weather:

• When wind/current direction is expected to stay constant, put two anchors upwind, a few hundred feet apart, then let out the rodes until the two anchor lines form a “V.” This splits the load between two anchors and will prevent the boat from swinging. It will pivot at the end of the “V.”

• When the wind is expected to be variable, put out two bow anchors, draw in both rodes tight to the bow cleat. The bow will be positioned in the middle of the straight line formed by the anchor rodes. Once set, both anchors hold a tight position. To ensure there won’t be any snags as the wind turns the boat, tie a plastic bottle filled with sand or stones on both rodes approximately a boat length from the bow cleats. This weight guarantees the slack line will be held down well below the underwater gear.

What Type of Line to Use
The anchor rode can be nylon rope or chain, or a combination of both. For yachts running a chain, a windlass is mandatory to handle the weight. I prefer using a combination of 12 to 15 feet of galvanized chain and twisted nylon rope. The chain won’t get damaged by dragging or chaffing on a rocky bottom and its weight lowers the angle of the boat’s pull, improving the anchor’s holding power. Nylon stretches more than chain, so the rode doesn’t jerk the boat in a rolling sea. It’s also a good idea to mark intervals of 10 to 20 feet with spray paint or colored nylon cord on the rode to know just how much rode you have let out.

Lowering the Anchor
Some boaters find it less stressful to spread out the rode on the foredeck, which prevents the rode from tangling in the anchor locker. The rode must also be clear of cleats, and most importantly, your feet to ensure the utmost safety. Idle the boat upwind, just beyond where you want to anchor, then simply shift into reverse to stop all forward motion. As the boat starts slowly moving aft (and from the signal from the driver at the helm) start lowering the anchor from the bow slowly. Never throw the anchor– the rode will tangle. Continue to let out a sufficient amount of rode for the applicable scope (more on scope later) and to determine if the anchor is set, simply snub the rode on the bow cleat, release, back up a few feet, then snub it again. When the boat stops abruptly, the anchor is set. When using a windlass, tie the rode on a cleat to relieve the boat’s tension from the windlass clutch.

Raising the Anchor
The easiest way to raise an anchor is to have the captain idle forward, as you pull in the slack, to prevent pulling the weight of the boat against the wind. For boats with a windlass, the process is much easier—simply step on the button as the rode goes slack, and be sure to hold onto the bow rail for balance and keep your feet clear. If you don’t have a windlass, sit on the deck with your feet braced against the bow rail stanchions. This increases leverage and prevents you from losing your balance.

Selecting A Safe Anchorage
The anchor should always be tied-off at bow into the wind since the bow is engineered to cut through waves, while the stern isn’t.

Ideally, you want to select a well protected, quiet bay or cove – an area without cottages, marinas, or constant boat traffic. We prefer anchoring near unpopulated public land, where we can go ashore for a walk, or set up chairs and enjoy a campfire.

If you want to anchor on a busy bay, choose a location halfway between other boats. Never set your anchor too close to another boat nor directly upwind or downwind of another boat in the event of anchor drag. Before you set your anchor, positioning your boat approximately 45 degrees off either transom corner off the neighboring boat.

In crowded anchorages, observe anchor methods other boaters are using. If they are using two or more anchors to reduce the swinging radius, you’ll want to do the same. Shallower anchorages (10 to 20 feet of water) require less rode for the appropriate scope and the boat has a much smaller swinging radius. Be cautious while anchoring in rough water since it causes the boat to rise and fall, or jerk fore and aft. These actions lift and pull the anchor loose.

How to Ensure a Strong Anchor Hold
An anchor will not hold if the rode goes straight down below the surface. Many boaters try to do this and they can’t understand why their anchor drags. This is where scope comes in.

The scope simply determines how much rode to let out, and helps the anchor flukes dig into the bottom, preventing the anchor from dragging or raising.

To figure out the scope, simply add the water depth with the height of the bow, then multiply by the determined scope (*A scope of five is recommended if you’re anchoring for an afternoon, while a scope of seven should be used for a longer duration). For example, in 20 feet of water with a bow height of four feet, you have a total of 24 feet. For an overnight stay, the calculation would be 24 feet x 7. So, you will have to let out approximately 168 feet of rode. Some other methods to ensure a secure hold include using the proper anchor for the bottom and setting two or more anchors.

How and When to Use An anchor in an Emergency
If your engine fails in a narrow channel or river, and the wind can potentially blow you into the shoreline, lower the bow anchor immediately and let out as much line as the river width will permit. Once anchored, try to repair or resolve the problem. If you cannot get underway safely, flag down a passing boat for a tow and/or call the Coast Guard on VHF channel 16. If you have a dinghies, use it as a towboat if the seas permit or to set a second anchor.

If your engine(s) fail in deep, rough water simply drop the bow anchor to aim the boat into the oncoming seas. The drag of the anchor will help prevent the boat from rolling in the trough between waves.

Anchor Maintenance/Rode Maintenance
Every fall (for boats stored indoors or under shrink wrap) pull and lay out all the rode on your foredeck so it will dry completely over the winter. Be sure to rinse off mud or clay by dunking it up and down in the water, or drag it along just below the surface. Like Grandad Dawson said, “Look after your tools and your tools will look after you”.

Anchor Safety
Before you head out for a cruise, be sure to check the eye splice, thimble and rode for wear. If it is worn, replace it. While the rode is out, confirm “the bitter end” is tied to the eye or cleat in the locker. It’s not pleasant when the whole rode follows the anchor down to the bottom. Check the clevis pin for tightness and ensure it’s secured with stainless steel wire or a nylon snap tie.(Page Top)