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Northeastern
Ontario by
Peter Tasler
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Steering
your vessel toward this northern region means stowing
your cell phone, pulling back on the throttles and setting
your sails. Already set is a course that undoubtedly
tops the charts.
Nature's
breathtaking beauty provides a magnificent backdrop
for boating adventures and a plethora of recreational
opportunities in northeastern Ontario, one of the province's
top-ranked vacation playgrounds.
Settled more than 10,000 years ago by Canada's indigenous
people, much of the land remains rugged and untamed,
boasting a massive boreal forest comparable only to
the Amazon jungle and numerous fly-in fishing camps
that attract anglers from all corners of the globe each
year.
While many rivers and lakes here are accessible solely
by canoe or kayak, northeastern Ontario is an equal
opportunity paradise for power and sail boaters, offering
a diverse selection of outdoor and indoor attractions
and activities for visitors of all ages.
Enjoy a refreshing dip in a crystal-clear lake, soak
up some rays on a sandy beach, cruise a scenic waterway
and maybe hook some trout, walleye or bass for your
evening meal. Visitors who prefer big-city creature
comforts and amenities won't be disappointed, either.
Cosmopolitan centres such as North Bay, Sudbury and
Ottawa make an ideal home base, easily accessible to
the region's charming, historically-rich towns and attractions,
set against a scenic backdrop teeming with wildlife,
great fishing spots and gorgeous lakes suitable for
all types of boating activities.
TEMISKAWA WATERWAY
Stretching from Arnprior, just west of Ottawa, nearly
500 kilometres north to New Liskeard, the former Lake
Temiskaming/Ottawa River Waterway, officially opened
at Mattawa on August 21, 1993, is tailor-made for smaller,
trailerable boats.
Unlike standard locks, the Temiskawa Waterway bypasses
rapids and dams using tow vehicles hooked to marine
hydraulic trailers capable of handling power boats up
to 30 feet in length and 12,000 pounds of displacement
for a one to two-kilometer distance.
Pontoon boats as long as 28 feet can be moved on special
bunk trailers. Unfortunately, due to trailer design
and clearance, houseboats and sailboats not equipped
with retractable keels and quick-stepping masts cannot
be accommodated.
Bypass sites for each of the five lifts (located on
both sides of the provincial border at Temiskaming,
Mattawa, Rapides-des-Joachims, Desjardinville, Chapeau,
Bryson and Portage-du-Forte) feature modern docks and
concrete ramps. Some offer additional amenities to make
overnighting at the docks more convenient; most have
telephones that connect boaters to waterway staff. Boaters
can also call ahead on their VHF radios. The entire
process, from haul-out to re-launch, usually takes 20
to 30 minutes.
Following water routes once used by native people and
Canada's earliest explorers, the Temiskawa delivers
an unusual mix of scenic wilderness cruising and onshore
amenities found at easily accessible full-service marinas
and the towns and cities along the Ottawa River bordering
Quebec.
Navigation is straightforward in most areas. Major obstacles
are well-marked and charted. Although official nautical
charts do not cover the entire Temiskawa, a comprehensive
cruising guide is available, providing detailed navigational
information on the waterway's uncharted sections and
insight on its communities, services and attractions.
Best of all, it's free! (Call 1-866-224-5244). Canadian
Hydrographic Services charts 1551-1555 can be obtained
at local marinas or through Fisheries and Oceans.
Whether you plan on a weekend getaway or two-week vacation,
you'll discover a rich variety of events, attractions,
restaurants and shopping along the Temiskawa. There's
no shortage of overnight accommodations, either. You
can spend a restful night on the water, anchored in
a sheltered cove, or camp onshore. Less adventurous
boaters can enjoy a comfortable night's sleep in one
of the many hotels and motels enroute. (Page
Top)
The Temiskawa can be accessed from many locations between
New Liskeard/ Haileybury and Notre-Dame-du-Nord in the
north, and Arnprior. The waterway is also a gateway
to the region's several prime backwater lakes, rivers
and thriving communities.
Pembroke is one of the first stops for boaters with
their compasses pointed north. Located in the heart
of the Ottawa Valley, the city features a recently revamped
waterfront (with an annual August festival), marina
services, an extensive choice of accommodations and,
like much of northeastern Ontario, access to some of
the most productive angling waters. Pembroke is also
known for excellent bird watching. Nearby Driftwood
Provincial Park offers family camping, boating facilities
and superlative sandy beaches.
A short distance upriver, captains and crews can dock
and visit Petawawa's Canadian Airborne Forces Museum,
which showcases an array of indoor exhibits illustrating
the country's 45-year history of military parachuting,
and outdoor displays of vehicles and aircraft.
Deep River, a two-hour drive from Ottawa, caters to
sail and power boaters. There's a yacht club and a select
number of marinas offering limited transient slips on
a first-come, first-served basis. Deep River also lays
claim to being one of the smallest communities in the
country to have its own symphony orchestra and Canada's
sole heritage clock museum.
The deep waters of Lake Temiskaming mark the northern
boundary of the Temiskawa Waterway. Haileybury, located
on the west shore, is a prime example of northeastern
Ontario hospitality and boater-friendly facilities earmarked
by a newly developed waterfront, full-service marina,
sandy beach and great fishing for bass, pike and walleye.
A short distance away from the similarly popular facilities
of New Liskeard, Haileybury is also home to a world-famous
mining school (attended by many executives worldwide)
and a heritage museum. Devil's Rock, named after an
Indian princess who leaped to her death after being
denied marriage to the brave she chose, offers a spectacular
view of the lake. It is also widely considered to be
the setting for The House on the Cliff, one of the books
in the famous Hardy Boys series.
TEMAGAMI
A
nature lover's dream, the picturesque panorama that
surrounds Lake Temagami is steeped in history, containing
artifacts and stone drawings dating as far back as 6,000
BC. In the 1930s, Grey Owl spent much of his time in
the Temagami area. Accepted by the Ojibway of northeastern
Ontario, Grey Owl captivated the world with the image
of an aboriginal trapper turned wildlife crusader. After
he died, people discovered that Grey Owl was actually
an English trapper and fire ranger named Archibald Belaney
who, after adopting two orphaned beavers, vowed never
to kill again. His unswerving efforts to put an end
to irresponsible trapping was instrumental in saving
the beaver, which the fur trade had all but wiped out
by the turn of the 20th century.
More than 2,560 kilometres of interconnecting canoe
routes have transformed the Temagami landscape into
an internationally recognized heaven for paddlers. Power
boaters, too, are welcome to experience the majestic
grandeur of Temagami's white pine forests, crystal-clear
blue waters and bountiful fish and wildlife. Recreational
activities here will appeal to all ages, running the
gamut from windsurfing and kayaking to fishing, diving
and mountain biking.
Home to rarely seen flora such as purple-fringed and
rattlesnake orchids, a visit to the Temagami area may
even reward dedicated birdwatchers with sightings of
the endangered peregrine falcon. Thanks to ceaseless
efforts of dedicated conservationists, the fastest bird
on earth is once again making its formerly native habitat
home. (Page Top)
LAKE NIPISSING
Spectacular sunsets, excellent fishing and outstanding
boating opportunities are only some of the treasures
that await vacationers in this cultural and recreational
hub of northeastern Ontario.
Whether your tastes lean towards outdoor activities
such as windsurfing, power or sailboat cruising and
tanning on miles of manicured beaches or you're on the
prowl for some big-city action, chances are you'll find
what you're looking for on and around Lake Nipissing.
North Bay, located at the crossroads of highways 11
and 17 on the lake's eastern shore, delivers the best
of both worlds. Bordered on one side by Lake Nipissing
(more than 65 kilometres long and about 24 kilometres
wide) and the smaller Trout Lake directly opposite,
North Bay is a popular destination for boaters, complete
with full marina services and ample waterfront dockage.
Together with the nearby French and Mattawa rivers,
North Bay's adjoining waters are home to some of the
continent's best fishing for walleye, pike, sturgeon,
perch, muskie, whitefish and trout.
Onshore, North Bay is chock-full of big-city attractions
and amenities guaranteed to slake the thirst of visitors
with a penchant for shopping, fine dining, art galleries
and museums and entertaining nightlife.
On the Civic Holiday weekend in August, the city also
hosts the Gateway Heritage Festival, featuring cultural
and musical performances, museum displays, exhibits
by local artisans, an air show and much more. A fireworks
display marks the end of each evening.
Or you can take a scenic cruise to nearby Callander
Bay and across Lake Nipissing to the mouth of the French
River on the M.V. Chief Commanda II (Chief Commanda
I, Canada's first all-aluminum catamaran, was taken
out of service in 1975).
Nestled along the southeastern shores of Lake Nipissing,
Callander is a popular resort community that takes its
name from Callander, Scotland, celebrating its heritage
with an annual Celtic festival held on the Victoria
Day long weekend in May. The village provides vacationing
boaters with full marina services, sandy beaches, a
yacht club and a selection of outdoor activities, including
sport fishing, golfing and, for nature enthusiasts,
a huge wildlife marsh.
While North Bay houses the Dionne Quints Museum (birthplace
of the famous Dionne Quintuplets in 1934 Ð moved from
its original site in nearby Corbeil), one of Callander
Bay's frequently visited sites is located in the former
home of the quintuplets' doctor. The heritage museum
is reputed to contain one of the largest collections
of Dionne Quint memorabilia. (Page Top)
WELL WORTH THE TRIP
A visit to northeastern Ontario can end or begin by
trailering your boat along Highway 11, billed as the
world's longest Main Street. Our route continues south,
past Powassan, minutes away from some of the region's
incredible labyrinth of backcountry lakes and rivers
that exemplify adventure.
Just a short distance to the east lies Algonquin Park.
A world-renown diamond in the rough, the 7,700-square-kilometre
provincial park is a haven for hikers, mountain bikers,
backpackers and campers.
Algonquin Park is home to more than 260 species of birds,
40 types of mammals and 1,000 species of plants. Beaches,
swimming and picnic areas are plentiful and marked trails
provide hikers with explanations along the way.
Only one road, Highway 60 (accessible from Highway 11,
just north of Huntsville), runs through the park and
leads to the car campgrounds and lodges. The park can
also be accessed via Highway 17 to the north. Water
travel here is strictly limited to canoes.
In the region's southwestern section, near Sunridge,
Highway 124 (off Hwy 11) leads to two of the area's
most popular boating and fishing destinations.
Magnetawan is a summer paradise for visitors, featuring
great fishing, a historical museum and numerous cottage
and recreation facilities. The provincially-funded reconstruction
of the historic Magnetawan Lock, completed in 1998,
resulted in the reopening of the lock to boat traffic.
The system today includes a walkway right across to
the island in Lake Cecebe, which offers full marina
services and is part of a 40-mile waterway system leading
to Ahmic Lake and the majestic Magnetawan River.
Dunchurch is the only town in the area with a direct
public access road to the district's second-largest
body of water, Whitestone Lake.
In addition to its cottage country charm and picturesque
landscape, the community also has the only full-service
marina on the lake.
There's no end to the dazzling beauty and tranquility
Mother Nature has bestowed on northeastern Ontario,
a must-visit water wonderland Ð not for boaters only!
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