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Trade Up Or Rebuild ?
by
Steve Horsfall
I have enjoyed
reading your column in PBC over the years. Have we any outboard
junkyards in Ontario? I've got a 1987 triple Merc 70 hp and want
to hop it up to the 90 hp, same block (71,1 cid Serial # A 729247),
but different carbs, manifolds, reed blocks and reeds. I have discovered
this in my research, although except for the advanced timing, I'm
unsure if any other parts require a change to get the extra 20 ponies.
I've got all the part numbers required but the bill exceeds one
grand so I'm looking for a scrapped 90 Merc. Any place where I should
inquire?
Any comments would be appreciated. K. Denardo
(e-mail)
I know of no places that specialize in wrecking
outboard motors in Ontario. Having said that, every marina I've
ever been to has their own shed full of junked motors. Perhaps you
could post what you’re looking for on the net using one of the many
advertising classified services.
Personally, I think you would be better to trade
the engine for a used 90 Merc in working condition, given that your
engine is now 13 years old. If you think of your time as being worth
anything at all, you could probably buy a slightly newer 90 Merc
for less money than converting yours. In fact, you could go to one
of the four cylinder engines with little penalty in weight or size
and pick up even more power in the bargain!
If there are any readers who have info on marine
junkyards or have a junked 90 Merc, let me know. (Top)
Antifouling advice…
I have a 1977 23' Sangster. I recently noticed that when there
is extra weight onboard the area of antifouling paint drops below
the waterline. Over the last few years this has caused the white
gelcoat to become very dirty. I would like to extend the antifouling
line about two inches higher up the sides of the boat.
I have re-antifouled my boat last year using
what I've always used, VC17. What preparation work must be done
in order to extend this line upward? Do I have to sand these extra
two inches and use anything special before applying the VC17 or
must I re-apply VC17 to the entire bottom again?
H. Stromboulopoulos (e-mail)
Thoroughly clean the area to be painted to remove
dirt and oil residue, then wash the surface with solvent to remove
any remaining wax. Apply a good fiberglass primer to soften the
gelcoat and then apply two coats of the finish antifouling paint
to this area. I would overlap the old and the new finishes at least
by two inches. The next time the rest of the hull is due, one coat
over the whole thing should suffice.
Interlux makes a good solvent and primer for this
purpose. (Top)
Updating fabric…
I am seeking your advice with respect to a problem I am experiencing
with a 1990 Cadorette 280 Express Cruiser. The boat is in great
shape, however, the cabin walls and ceiling have a white, very coarse,
carpet-like fabric glued to it. Over the years the fabric has become
stained and has several unsightly areas. I have tried to steam clean
it, bleach it, you name it, but nothing seems to work. Additionally,
the cabin seems to always have a damp smell, which I assume is,
at least in part, a result of moisture collecting in all that fabric.
I'd like to remove the fabric and replace it
with one of the more modern materials that can been seen in late-model
boats such as wood veneer or marine vinyl. I'm not sure if this
renovation is advisable or if this is even a do-it-yourselfer job?
If it can be done, then I'd appreciate some guidance on who to contact
to purchase the raw materials, reference materials or even to get
some help with this project.
D. Serrao (e-mail)
This is a very difficult job. Most of the boat
manufacturers install this stuff before they install the boat's
interior pieces. This means it was installed in one piece, but must
be removed and installed in small sections due to bulkheads, cupboards,
beds, etc. Also the new material that you will install will also
become stained unless you can find the source of the water leaks.
Most frequently, leaks occur at the gunwale strip,
(where the hull and deck join), and around windows, hatches and
deck fittings, (cleats, bow rail bases, spotlight or horn accessories).
I would attempt to repair the leaks, then try and remove the stains
to the existing material. Follow directions carefully and try on
a small section to make sure it is safe for fabric. When it is clean
and dry, Scotch Guard the material to help eliminate further stains.
If you want to go ahead with the replacement, I
would choose a material like Ozite outdoor carpet and Scotch Guard
it before and after installation. Ozite makes a carpet cement for
holding it in place. (Top)
Prop pick-up and repair…
I enjoy reading Power Boating Canada. Your column "Ask The Expert"
is both helpful and informative. In Volume 15, number 4, you mentioned
two propeller repair stores, Kawartha and Bayview. I have two props
I would like to have checked over for proper pitch, cupping, etc.
Can you recommend a good shop(s) in the Brantford or Hamilton area
as this is closer to home.
D. Maguire (e-mail)
I can't recommend places that I have not had the
experience of using, but, you should be aware that both Bayview
Propeller Repair has a pick-up and delivery service to most local
marinas and dealerships throughout Ontario. If your local marina
is not on its route, you can call them for the local pick-up point
in your area. In season, they usually pick-up and deliver in one
to two weeks, less often in the off season. They will usually do
rush jobs in a few days using the couriers, U.P.S., Purolator, etc.
(Top)
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