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Cover - Vol.15 / No. 3
Magazine Word
Vol. 15 / No. 3 - June, 2000
ASK THE EXPERT

Steve HorsfallSound Tips For Noisy Engines
                                              
by Steve Horsfall
Last year I purchased a 1999 18-foot Bayliner Capri, powered with a 3L 135 hp MerCruiser. We love the boat but have one complaint. I am quite disappointed in the engine noise. It idles quiet but is quite loud when cruising anywhere past 25 mph. I'm not sure if it is the engine or drive unit that is loud.

I have talked to one owner who has purchased the exact same boat and he said he was also disappointed with the louder-than-expected engine noise. I have also ridden in other boats with inboard engines that are much quieter than this one. The dealer told me this is "the nature of the beast," and there is nothing I can do. I have put extra insulation on the inside of the engine cover but it didn't make much difference. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can reduce the noise level?

B. McLaren
E-mail

This is not the first time I've come across this problem. The reason the insulation made little difference is that there are lots of places around the box and the rear jump seats where the sound can escape into the cockpit. Also, there is little insulation in the hull fibreglass structure, so the boat suffers from a lot of water noise created by the water against the hull while underway. Large amounts of spray foam is one option. It is available in large aerosol cans at building supply stores.

Another thing that makes any boat seem loud is running with the top up. A lot of people like to remove the back curtain and the side windows when they go for a ride, but they leave the main top up to protect themselves from the sun. If you put the main top down, the boat will be significantly quieter.

Throttle Advice
I have a 1975, 135 hp, V-4 Evinrude motor. The problem is when you hit the throttle it dies out. If I feed the throttle slowly it will eventually get going. Once it does it runs fine. At wide open throttle it runs about 5,000 RPM. The recommended range is 4,800 to 5,500 RPM.

The second problem is cold starting. When the electric choke plate closes (which is in the specified clearance of .015 inches) it won't start, but if I get someone to hold it down with a little bit of pressure, it starts within two cranks.

I have changed plugs, plug wires, coils, needle & seats, in carb and also the high and low speed jets. The carb float is fine too. The power pack and the timer base have been changed. After doing all this, it still does the same thing.

My question is, could it be the crankshaft seals are leaking? That is the only thing I can think of. One more thing, a compression test was done and was very good.

S.H.C.S.
E-mail

Your engine is definitely suffering from a lean condition at idle. Either not enough fuel or too much air is getting into the engine. Check the color of the spark plugs at the spark area. They should all be the same tan to light gray color. If they are not, which ones are different? If it is the top or bottom cylinder, crankshaft seals could be leaking air. If two upper cylinders or two bottom cylinders are the same, it is likely a carburetor problem.

I suggest trying richer idle jets or turning adjustment screws out one half turn (if low speed mixture is adjustable). Internal crank seals are rarely the problem. Also, with the engine idling and the air box cover removed, check if there is any gas spitting out the throat of either of the carbs. If there is, this indicates chipped or broken reed valves. These are located between the carb intake manifold and the block.

If none of the above, I would check for broken bleed hoses or vacuum lines or leaking intake manifold gaskets. The hoses are a common problem on all engines, the intake gaskets are a rarer problem. Please note that if you find chipped or broken reeds, you should check maximum RPM at wide open throttle after the engine has been repaired. The most common cause of reed breakage is over-revving and one of the symptoms of broken reeds is a poor idle and a loss of top speed. Where over-revving is the cause, a larger propeller will need to be fitted to bring the RPM down to the 4,800 to 5,500 range.

If your engine has adjustable low speed mixture screws on the carbs, it is important to set them just a bit richer than a smooth idle for best all around performance. If you go 1/4 to 1/2 turn out from smooth idle this should be about right. I suspect you have a lean mixture problem at slow speed only because a high speed lean-out condition usually causes piston failure if it is left too long. And as your compression test readings are okay, I don't think your problem is in the main jet area. When you correct the low speed mixture problem, your hard starting problem will be corrected also.


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